Following the traces of the reversed flow of time, delving not too far into the past, we search for images of a slightly different Hanoi than the one we encounter today amidst the B&W photographs: a small café on Nguyen Huu Huan Street. The name is not unfamiliar to Hanoians or those who have known some little things about modern and contemporary art in Vietnam - Café Lâm at 60 Nguyen Huu Huan. Nestled in the midst of the old quarter, this cozy café was known as a gathering place for many artists, writers, and intellectuals of the time. The story unfolds with paintings adorning the walls, and renowned Vietnamese artists using their artwork to "pay" for coffee and cigarettes. Was it because coffee and cigarettes were extravagantly pricey back then, or was it the precious moments spent together, contemplating life and art, that warranted such an exchange?

Cafés becoming a haven for artists and intellectuals is not unique to Hanoi. Concurrent with the rise of "existentialism" in France in the mid-20th century, Parisian cafés were popular destinations for scholars and artists, engaging in discussions about human existence or seeking creative inspiration. Beyond serving drinks or fostering a sense of community, these spaces were versatile in showcasing artworks and serendipitously connecting artists with appreciators and collectors. That's how the story went, but how is it going? The old spirits, now transitioning with the urbanization and the “taste” of the present, have found new homes in online realms with virtual doorways on social media platforms. Or perhaps, they still reside somewhere among the bustling streets of Hanoi. Are these places still the centers of artistic expression and cultural dialogue? Do artworks continue to grace the walls, carrying messages about the essence of their time? As the F&B scene in Hanoi relentlessly develops, does art adapt to the societal changes?

As we venture through the landscape of creative spaces nowadays, we are irresistibly drawn to explore the intertwined narratives of art, alternative spaces, gastronomy, and interpersonal experiences. Discovering the harmonious convergence between the past and the present, as well as the pervasive influence of alternative spaces compared to museums or galleries, in shaping and inspiring artistic forces.

Engaging in conversations with some young artists who run cafes alongside their creative pursuits, we talked to Thuỳ Mai, an independent artist living and working in Hanoi. Mai shared that having a small café on the ground floor and a painting studio on the second floor provides her family with a stable monthly income. As a full-time artist, she recognizes the uncertainty that comes with her artistic practice, stating: "There are no guarantees in this line of work."

On the other hand, artist Lê Anh, who used to own a chain of four cafes around Hanoi, sees these spaces as outlets for his personal aesthetic view, both in terms of space and art. He hangs his own artwork for those who are interested in viewing it and also displays pieces from his personal collection. However, due to limited time and a desire to focus more on his own creation, Lê Anh has relinquished three out of the four cafes and now operates only one by himself.

For art collectors, their cafes or restaurants serve as playful environments where they can indulge their palates with culinary delights that align with their taste, while also satisfying their visual appetite. It is evident that for artists and collectors alike, the motivation behind operating these spaces, whether for economic or other personal reasons, stems from the inherent need for a haven, both for oneself and like-minded individuals. Such spaces often bear the distinct spontaneous touch of their owners.

Additionally, since Hanoi was recognized as a Creative City by UNESCO in 2018, the overall landscape has seen positive changes in the cultural and artistic scenes. There are art spaces that sell coffee, but there are even more F&B places or malls that incorporate art into their models. Whether it is to support artists, contribute to community development, or elevate customer experience, these are all encouraging signs that indicate a growing interest, particularly among younger audiences, in nourishing their souls through artistic and cultural experiences.

Taking a closer look, this phenomenon also reflects the limited access to mainstream exhibition spaces in museums or professional galleries (as opposed to art shops) in Hanoi. Renting exhibition spaces can cost between 3 to 10 million VND per day, some spaces require booking 1-2 years in advance. Often, Vietnamese artists would need to pay these costs and set up the exhibitions themselves. Consequently, the creative abilities of these artists are not only demonstrated through their works but also through their innovative approaches to displaying and exhibiting their pieces in alternative spaces. The viewers, undoubtedly benefit from the accessibility of art being present everywhere, rather than confined within the walls of a museum. For the overall ecosystem of the Hanoi art market though, the direction and future of this are still open to different interpretations.

One thing is for sure: the integration of art into F&B venues and alternative spaces has provided opportunities for artists to showcase their work and engage with a wider audience. It has also allowed art to permeate various aspects of daily life, making it more accessible and relatable to people from diverse backgrounds. This shift may contribute to a more vibrant and inclusive art scene in Hanoi, where creativity can thrive beyond traditional exhibition spaces.

*The mentioned locations do not encompass all F&B spaces with integrated artistic elements and can be viewed as a playful exploration of random encounters.